Left Gergor's beautiful B&B in Callanish around 9:30 and followed the single track Pentland Road that heads over the moors to Stornoway. Every day the scenery is different. Todays was vast moorland similar to in Yorkshire, with peat cutting all along the road side. Called in at the co-op in Stornoway for supplies. I waited outside with the bikes and chatted to a man who told me he once worked on the trawlers when work was hard to find and once was fined £5 in the 1960's for driving the wrong way down a street in Reading. Sheltered from the cold wind in the Arts Centre Cafe until time for the ferry and failed to find any newspaper other than the Inverness Times in any news agents.
The ferry port is undergoing redevelopment and the ramp may well have been in use for the first time. Anyhow, the result was that a coach trying to exit the ferry got grounded and it took them the best part of 2 hours to free it, delaying the ferry departure in the meanwhile. As a special concession the cyclists were allowed to shelter on the ferry until our bikes could be loaded - it was freezing and quite wet.
The crossing was a bit rough, though probably nothing much by their standards. Arrived at Ullapool around 7 and booked a table at the Arches where we had a good meal, though my plate was late to arrive at the table.
Photos to follow if they ever arrive off my phone!
Tour outline
Thursday: Train from Tring to Glasgow via Euston, one night in Glasgow, then a train to Oban in time for the afternoon ferry to Castlebay, Barra. Then the tour proper begins on Saturday morning, cycling from Barra up through the Outer Hebridian Islands with time to meander and explore. By Wednesday we should reach Stornoway for the ferry to Ullapool on mainland Scotland, then up further North and around the top to Orkney by the second Monday. There we have four days to explore before catching the overnight ferry to Aberdeen, followed by First Class train travel home. Two and a half weeks, done!
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