Outer edges of Scotland 2014: Rousay

The main island on the Orkneys has seemed much less remote than I expected.The main road between Stromness and Kirkwall is busy and there's little sense of remoteness like you get on Uist or even Lewis on the Outer Hebrides. Despite the weather forecast we decided to go to Rousay today (well Sally and I did - Jackie and Ian sensibly chose a visit to the sites of Kirkwall) to see if we could find something a little quieter on the Orkneys.

We set off in the rain along a 10 mile route I had mapped that avoided the main road and took us on single track all the way to the ferry at Tingwall. We sheltered in the small ticket office and boarded the ferry as instructed when the one car that was making the journey was loaded on by the lady in the orange oil skins. We were the only passengers in the lounge (cabin or hut would be a better description) so I assume the car driver stayed put for the 30 minute journey.

It was raining heavily when we docked on Rousay and we soon established that the cafe was closed on a Wednesday but the craft shop did teas and coffees until 5:30 every day. The ferry returned to the main island at 3:20 and 5:30 so it looked like we were sorted for pre ferry refreshments later on.

The road around Rousay is 13 miles of single track. Rousay is apparently known as the Egypt of the North. I can only imagine that this is to do with the amount of sun it gets and not the number of stone age monuments. We decided to do it clockwise because the Taversoe Hotel is only a couple of miles from the ferry that way and we wanted lunch. On route we parked the bikes up and went to look at a 2 storey cairn through the grill that blocks ones view of the interior.

We soon found the hotel and after removing our waterproofs in the porch made our grand entrance to be greeted by fresh towels and very friendly staff. They were most helpful with Sally's gluten free requirements and did me an excellent fish and chips.The lady who served us had moved from England 8 years ago and loved the island life. She said there were 250 people on Rousay and they formed a tight knit community. Many people on the island commuted daily to the main island to work.

We had contemplated returning for the 3:20 ferry but encouraged by our host we continued clockwise around the rugged landscape until we came to Saviskaill Bay in the north of the island where you can see seals according to the guide. They are correct because within 2 minutes of standing by the beach we realised that we could see grey seals to our left and sea lions directly in front of us who were busy watching us. There is something quite magic when a wild animal is as interested in you as you are in it. We could have stayed there all afternoon but if you miss the 5:30 ferry then you are on the island until morning, so we hurried on with the wind (and rain) on our backs back to the port.

The craft shop was still open and tea/coffee/hot choc (not hot chic as previously posted - thanks spell checker!) was only a £1 a go on a help yourself basis. Sally bought a hand knitted hat and we chatted to the owner and another lady waiting for the 5:30 ferry.

The ferry home was quite busy with people commuting back to the main island, including the district nurse who had passed us in her car earlier. She was a bit surprised that we were cycling all the way back to Finstown.

Came back home using the main road, which was incredibly quiet. Bought some duck eggs from an honesty box at a farm gate and I diverted briefly to the Finstown local shop to get a bottle of beer.